The Science around Hyaluronic Acid

What is it?

Deimantė Narauskaitė

MSc in Medicinal Chemistry

Expert in cosmetics ingredients, developer of new cosmetics products, cosmetics visioneer.

Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronan, is a linear glycosaminoglycan, naturally found in human connective tissue, as well as the vitreous of the eye, and in joints. Although it is present in almost every cell of our bodies, its highest concentration is found in our skin, which contains almost 50 percent of our body’s hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronan, which occurs naturally in the skin as clear, gel-like liquid, is an important component of the intercellular matrix, which is responsible for regulating water balance in the skin, cell differentiation, and the proliferation of cells in the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin). Along with collagen and elastin, it also helps to maintain structure of cells in the dermis (our inner layer of skin).

The amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases significantly with age, which can lead to dryness and the appearance of wrinkles. By taking hyaluronic acid or using cosmetic products that contain hyaluronic acid, we can improve skin hydration as well minimizing the signs of aging.

How does it work?

It is scientifically known that a molecule of hyaluronic acid retains water molecules up to 1,000 times its own weight, making it a humectant that collects moisture and transports it directly to the skin. The molecular sizes of various hyaluronic acids differ, ranging from larger molecules that cover the surface of the skin, to smaller ones that penetrate deeper into the epidermis. Once applied to skin, these different molecular sizes lead to different effects:

  • High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid – ensures an instant effect by forming a film over the skin’s surface, moisturizing the skin and enhancing its elasticity and firmness.
  • Medium-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid – hydrates the epidermis, smooths the skin, creates the effect of visible plumpness, restores skin tone, and minimizes fine lines and wrinkles.
  • Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid – ensures that water is retained in the connective tissue of the skin. This additional moisture has a rejuvenating effect, making the skin firmer and visibly reducing wrinkles.

Cosmetic products containing hyaluronic acid have skin-restoring properties, increasing the skin’s elasticity and hydration, reducing wrinkles, and making the skin look well-groomed and healthy.

Hyaluronic acid in BIOUS® skin care products

To ensure a long-lasting and intensive moisturizing effect, it is important to combine different sizes of hyaluronic acid molecules. Bious® Anti-Aging Regenerating Face Cream and BIOUS® Anti-Aging Face Serum Booster products are supplemented with medium- (HySilk®) and high- (Sodium Hyaluronate powder 1,6 mil Da) molecular-weight hyaluronic acid molecules. These help to maintain the skin’s hydration balance, enhance elasticity and firmness, and reduce wrinkles.